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Thoughts on Cinco food - Cocono's expertly mixes island, mexican tastes

Moises Treves relocates to the west Valley to open Cocono's Mexican Island Kitchen.

Central Phoenix diners at the legendary Such Is Life knew they'd lost a great chef when Moises Treves relocated to the west Valley to open Cocono's Mexican Island Kitchen. But we're here to tell you his deft touch is worth the drive to 82nd Avenue and Union Hills.

The Caribbean and Mexican connection seems pretty natural on this menu. Among Treves's specialties are Hawaiian pork tacos ($10.95) made with marinated shredded meat, sweet onions and pineapple. Among the appetizers you'll find Chilito ($7.30), a fresh-roasted poblano pepper and garlicky shrimp topped with melted manchego cheese on a corn tortilla. Fans of the Other White Meat will adore the pork cesina ($13.95), a loin cured with a guajillo pepper sauce (read, "slow burn") and served with rice, beans, guacamole and tortillas.

Another specialty: Caribbean stuffed fish ($18.95). The filet of sole is packed with crab, shrimp, poblanos, onions, garlic, tomatoes, cheese and white wine, then wrapped and baked in a banana leaf. Rice, corn and tortillas round out the dish.

However, since this is the month of Cinco de Mayo, we recommend the restaurant's Three Amigo Enchiladas ($11.95), as it is the closest dish visually to chiles en nogada. One beef enchilada is draped in red sauce; the middle roll is stuffed with spinach and topped with jalapeno cream sauce; a green tomatillo sauce bathes the third enchilada filled with chicken.

Cocono's Mexican
Island Kitchen $-$$
8280 W. Union Hills, Glendale 85308
(623) 362-8000