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Barbacoa!

Traditional cooking technique evolves to tempt new fans

Among Mexican families, barbacoa accompanies all the important events of a life, from baby baptism parties to marriages to meals after funerals.

"It’s a tradition, it’s part of the Hispanic tradition, and that’s what I like about it the most," says Alex Corona, one of the seven brothers and sisters operating Corona Ranch and Rodeo Grounds in Laveen, where barbacoa has been the favorite dish of family festivities since the ranch’s founding nearly three decades ago. Situated in Laveen at the foot of South Mountain Park, Corona Ranch has been host to Western steak-fry parties and Mexican fiestas since 1988.

"Nine times out of 10, barbacoa is the dish people will ask for when they come to Corona Ranch for a quinceañera or a wedding," he says.

The culinary art of preparing, seasoning and enjoying barbacoa comes from an ancient tradition that remains alive in parts of the United States where large Mexican-American populations have introduced their customs to the wider culture.

Corona believes the main reason why the barbacoa he prepares maintains its tasty essence is because he learned from his mother, Soledad.

"Being in the kitchen, with my mother…was the biggest lesson. One of my passions in life has been to be a chef who learns hands on, from traditions, using the authentic utensils. And here (at Corona Ranch) we try to do just that," he says.

In southern and northern Mexico, the slow roasting is a complex process. It begins with a pit full of charcoal known as piedras de carbon, with dry mesquite wood placed on top.

The meat is wrapped in maguey and banana leaves (just like putting the meat in foil paper) and then shoveling on top a layer of damp dirt. It sits there for about eight hours until it is so tender it falls apart.

In the United States, the process has changed. The meat is usually not roasted in-ground, but instead the wrapped meat is placed inside a copper pot over a low flame for eight hours.

Corona says the barbacoa gets that authentic, "genuine smoke and steamed" flavor that only the copper pots can accomplish, and of course, the spices make it savory and flavorful.

In Mexico, the cooks of different regions prefer different meats. In northern Mexico, barbacoa can be made from cow head meat (cabeza) or cabrito (young goat). In central Mexico, the choice is lamb, and in the Yucatan cochinita pibil, or pit-cooked pork, is preferred.

"Here in the U.S., the meats we use are the cheeks of the cow," he says, adding "That is the tenderest part of the cow." After a slow, tender roast, thebarbacoa literally melts in your mouth.

Barbacoa wouldn’t be complete without frijoles de la olla (beans from the pot), rice, and a dozen warm corn tortillas. Of course, cold cerveza completes the culinary alchemy.

Corona Ranch and Rodeo Grounds
7611 S. 29th Ave., Laveen
(602) 237-3303
www.coronaranch.com