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Dining - Mom-and-pop places serve up heavenly homestyle dishes

Mom-and-pop diners are less patronized and national chains have trained us to expect consistency

Blame it on our collective response to popular restaurant chains: mom-and-pop diners today are less patronized because we can't be sure we'll get what we want. National chains have trained us to expect consistency at their booths, wherever they are located.

That's not the case with smaller establishments, but the number of return visitors can speak volumes about the quality of food. Small Latino diners, especially ones that pride themselves on food made from scratch, nurture the appetites of its local customers.

Recently, up in north Phoenix, a line snaked into the parking lot. Overhead, harsh lights cast weird shadows as the sounds of dance music waft into the night, commingling with the scents of meat, tortillas and simmering green onions.

People with hunger their eyes and babies on their shoulders stand stoically, waiting to place their orders at El Rinconcito D.F., a postage-stamp of a place in Sunnyslope that enjoys a loyal following. We hear this restaurant had its start in the West Valley; upon relocation, fans followed it to a spot near Sunnyslope Bowl, on 12th Street just south of Dunlap.

Joe, a young man who was waiting in his car, offered some advice for a first-time diner. 

"We come here every Sunday night," he says, adding, "Try the Tacos al Pastor."

El Rinconcito sees lines of people many nights of the week. On the weekends they queue up early in the day for menudo and posole. The length of line may wane intermittently, but you can usually count on at least a 15-minute span before ordering.

Inside, a young woman takes down orders on her check pad while another cook stands next to her, dishing up a couple different taco fillings, warming tortillas and bathing fresh cebollitas in the simmering broth.

Joe's pick turns out to be sage advice.

The tender bits of meat prepared in the pastor style fall on doubled-up corn tortillas as a cook wields his large knife on the rotating roast. He'll also slice thin pieces of pineapple on your plate. You'll need that touch of sweetness after piling on the cilantro, chopped onion and fiery jalapeño salsa. Many guests also order bottled sodas from Mexico; presumably, the sugary drinks help cool down one's lips.

Tortas of all kinds are offered here, as well as other traditional quick eats. And since it is a neighborhood joint, the prices are cheap - two can eat well for about $20.

On cool evenings, families and couples enjoy dining al fresco under the eucalyptus trees. The only thing that seems to be in short supply is the seating - there's only one picnic table jammed into the eaterie. But at El Rinconcito, standing in line seems the right thing to do.

Another other small diner to try is Rito's, 907 N. 14th St., Phoenix, (602) 262-9842, a venerable daytime-only restaurant snuggled into an elementary school neighborhood. Here you'll rub elbows with neighbors and working professionals wanting to get their red or green chili fix. We advise ordering your burrito to go, so you can eat it on a sturdier aluminum plate; paper is totally inadequate when it comes to these juicy wonders. Note: prices are low, so this is a cash only establishment. Now that cooler weather has arrived, you can sit on the small patio; there are no tables inside.